A Trip to the Tonkinese Alps: SaPa and Ta Phin

By Rena Thiagarajan, September 08, 2014

Ta Phin village is nestled in some of the most verdant green mountains, known as the Tonkinese Alps, not far from the border of Vietnam and China. The closest town is SaPa, and the 5-hour hike from SaPa to Ta Phin meanders through brilliant emerald green paddy fields and the occasional field of hemp, cannabis plants of the non-smoking variety, used for their fiber.

These mountains are home to a number of tribes including the Red Dao, the Black Dao and the H’mong. The Dao began migrating to Vietnam during the 13th century, fleeing drought and famine in China and eventually settling in these lush hills, a perfect place to grow rice.

My host for the day is Ta May, and we are walking from SaPa to her village, Ta Phin. Ta May is dressed as most traditional Red Dao woman dress; in embroidered loose trousers that reach mid calf and a more elaborately embroidered indigo jacket, whose two front panels are knotted in the front like a belt. We wind our way on a narrow path bordered by paddy fields, stopping to say hello to a H’mong woman seated outsider her home at a spinning wheel. Her kids play in the front yard as she spins the stems of the cannabis plant into fibers that she will then weave into cloth. Deep freshly died indigo hemp is hung up to dry outside her home.

For centuries these communities in the Tonkinese Alps have been farming communities, but entrepreneurial woman like Ta May are starting to embrace the tourist trade by selling and marketing their intricate embroidery.

While Ta May and her mother often make the long trip to SaPa’s market to sell to the visiting tourists, I spent a couple of days amongst the women of Ta Phin to purchase the textiles for Project Bly. It was an intimate look into a community rich with history and traditions, a place that embraces its past while reaching towards the future.

I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Getting to Sa Pa and Ta Phin

Train to Lao Cai : You’ll have to head to SaPa to get to Ta Phin, and to get to SaPa you need to take a train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. Tickets are between $15-45, and are available from any of the small travel agents in the Old Quarter. I regretted not spending the extra $20 for a soft sleeper, which comes with a mattress and bedding! Also keep in mind that there are two train stations in Hanoi, so make sure you know where you’re going before you jump in a cab and ask to be taken to the train station.

Lao Cai to SaPa : Once you arrive in Lao Cai, there are a variety of options to get to SaPa. I hopped in one of the many mini buses ($3) but you can also take a private taxi ($30).

SaPa to Ta Phin : While you can take a bus or taxi to Ta Phin, it’s a pleasant hike through paddy fields and I’d recommend walking. Many tour operators and small travel agents in town offer this option, but for a more intimate experience Ta May is a wonderful guide.

Visiting SaPa

SaPa is the busiest town in the Tonkinese Alps, and, while not the prettiest town, it’s worth stopping here for the covered market. When you arrive, it will be breakfast time. With the fog swirling in the early morning, you’ll want to head first to the market for a steaming bowl of pho at one of the long communal tables, and some strong Vietnamese coffee with a generous helping of condensed milk.

Once you have warmed up you can make your way up to the top section of the market, where women from the surrounding villages sell textiles and jewelry.

There are plenty of SaPa hotel options with modern amenities, including the Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel on Cau May Street across from the market.

Visiting Ta Phin

While there are a lot of options to get to Ta Phin, including taking a bus, renting a motorbike or taking an organized tour, I’d suggest contacting Project Bly’s host in Ta Phin, Ta May. Ta May is an inspirational woman and quite the entrepreneur. Completely self taught, she speaks fluent English and assists in training young men and women in the community so they can lead trips through the countryside. Beyond selling her own embroidery, she helps the women of her village trade with the passing travelers. She also hosts travelers in her own home!

The best way to contact Ta May is by calling or texting her cell phone: 01 68 50 28 308