• Of course, not everyone is from Potosí. Luis Sonko, who has a store in what’s called the Witches’ Market, is from Oruro. When we stopped by her shop—which has a large selection of amulets as well as jarfuls of dried llama fetuses—she was making amulets for good luck. The amulets consist of glass bottles containing everything from charms to strands of hair, depending on what they’re for. Luis has been running her store for 25 years and knows about charms and amulets from her father, who learned it from his father, who learned it from his father, etc. The most popular amulet Luis sells is for love.

Photography by Szymon Kochański

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